| Mon Jul 26, 2010 5:38 pm |
 Post subject: Anyone good with car electronics? |
MikeD
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1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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I just bought a w202 about two months ago and decided to put in a Streetglow AMNI2 Music Interface Module. For those of you who don't know what a music interface is, it is a module that allows 12v lights to flash to the beat of your music. I am just having trouble trying to figure out where to hook it up so that it only turns on when I start my car (or when the keys are in the ignition, doesn't really matter which). To avoid draining my car battery, I don't want to connect the module directly to the battery.
Here's a pdf of the instructions/wiring diagram. I thought I'd hook it up to the fusebox in the trunk somehow, but I have absolutely NO IDEA of what I'm doing!
http://streetglow.com/site/Media/Manuals/anmi2.pdf |
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| Mon Jul 26, 2010 5:50 pm |
Post subject: |
ddmracing05
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Location: Tennessee
1997 Mercedes-Benz 230
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What you can do is buy a test light... Its like a screw driver with a pointy end and a long wire coming out of the top. You can clamp the alligator clip on something negative in the car, and find a wiring harness or some wires running somewhere. And poke into the wire. If its hot, the light inside the screw driver will come on. I recommend turning your key on while you do this  and if you find a wire that works, turn ur key off and try that wire again. If its still on then move on to the next wire until it turns off with the key. Best bet is behind the radio, under the little plastic thing under like where the door closes, or behind your 12v adapter.
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| Mon Jul 26, 2010 8:18 pm |
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xsuperbeex
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are you putting on under the car or under the dash... if under the car: nooooooooooooo dont.. tried once never doing it again.. 
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| Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:20 pm |
Post subject: |
Logic
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I hate to say this but the worse thing you can do is buy a test light.... a multimeter is the safest way to find your switch lead. Here is the reason why test lights are bad. probe the wrong wire and you can set off airbag, poke a wire and you can damage bcm, or any fragile electronic part. ignition is the best way to get a switch wire and very important to use a fuse on any thing you t-tap, also a test light will turn on at 6 volts so when you think you have the right wire and the under car lights will not turn on. again not to burst your bubble but the wire behind the deck, it wont have enough voltage to power the lights unless you use a relay. i would recommend using the relay so you can run a wire from the battery as your main power and using a trigger wire to switch the relay. this way you isolate the power from the trigger and you circuit is protected. take is from me as i m a master m.e.c.p. installer and been doing this for over 15 years.
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| Mon Jul 26, 2010 10:45 pm |
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PJmak
I hate C43s
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1998 Mercedes-Benz C43 AMG
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hit up justinwrock, hes a member here. He drives a blue w124 wagon
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| Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:54 am |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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Location: Illinois
1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| xsuperbeex wrote: |
| are you putting on under the car or under the dash... if under the car: nooooooooooooo dont.. tried once never doing it again.. |
Definitely under the dash! I'm not really into lights that go under the car.
| Logic wrote: |
| I hate to say this but the worse thing you can do is buy a test light.... a multimeter is the safest way to find your switch lead. Here is the reason why test lights are bad. probe the wrong wire and you can set off airbag, poke a wire and you can damage bcm, or any fragile electronic part. ignition is the best way to get a switch wire and very important to use a fuse on any thing you t-tap, also a test light will turn on at 6 volts so when you think you have the right wire and the under car lights will not turn on. again not to burst your bubble but the wire behind the deck, it wont have enough voltage to power the lights unless you use a relay. i would recommend using the relay so you can run a wire from the battery as your main power and using a trigger wire to switch the relay. this way you isolate the power from the trigger and you circuit is protected. take is from me as i m a master m.e.c.p. installer and been doing this for over 15 years. |
So how do I set up a relay? Any ideas on which wire I should use as the trigger?
I'm still wondering if it is possible to install it anywhere in the trunk. I originally planned on mounting the in the trunk because I can't think of a single place that I could install it on the dash. |
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| Tue Jul 27, 2010 6:31 pm |
Post subject: |
TA-9FF
I HATE HOUSTON!
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2006 Mercedes-Benz C Class
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What's the second tombstone about?
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| Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:59 pm |
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justinwrock
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You just looking for a switched 12v?
There are several places for you to tap a wire, easiest and safest would be the switched +12 on the back of your headunit. Are you running stock or aftermarket stereo?
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:38 am |
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MikeD
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1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| justinwrock wrote: |
You just looking for a switched 12v?
There are several places for you to tap a wire, easiest and safest would be the switched +12 on the back of your headunit. Are you running stock or aftermarket stereo? |
Stock  |
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:46 am |
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justinwrock
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If your running stock, and want to tap it off the power for your radio, it should be a blue/red or red/blue wire on the stereo harness.
Double check the wires with a voltmeter though.
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:34 pm |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| justinwrock wrote: |
If your running stock, and want to tap it off the power for your radio, it should be a blue/red or red/blue wire on the stereo harness.
Double check the wires with a voltmeter though. |
I'll give that a try. Would the cigarette lighter option be easier? |
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:01 pm |
Post subject: |
jreC230
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2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 Coupe
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| MikeD wrote: |
| I'll give that a try. Would the cigarette lighter option be easier? |
Yes cigarette lighter will work as well.
dont know the colors from a 202 but on the 203 is black/yellow stripe.... test with volt meter
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:26 pm |
Post subject: |
justinwrock
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| jreC230 wrote: |
Yes cigarette lighter will work as well.
dont know the colors from a 202 but on the 203 is black/yellow stripe.... test with volt meter |
IIRC, on a 202, thats the wire for power antenna lol.
Thats why test with a volt meter lol!
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:28 pm |
Post subject: |
jreC230
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| justinwrock wrote: |
IIRC, on a 202, thats the wire for power antenna lol.
Thats why test with a volt meter lol! |
On the Cigarette lighter plug? 
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:39 pm |
Post subject: |
justinwrock
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2000 pink roflcopter
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| jreC230 wrote: |
| On the Cigarette lighter plug? |
on the back of the stereo... lol, i thought that was the wire you were talking about!
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| Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:21 pm |
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SLAMMED_C
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| Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:16 pm |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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Location: Illinois
1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| jreC230 wrote: |
| MikeD wrote: |
| I'll give that a try. Would the cigarette lighter option be easier? |
Yes cigarette lighter will work as well.
dont know the colors from a 202 but on the 203 is black/yellow stripe.... test with volt meter |
| SLAMMED_C wrote: |
The cig lighter plug is best spot.. it is a 15 circuit, so it is only powered when the ignition is turned on.
I just used my cig plug in my w210 as a 15 circuit supply for the dvd player I just installed. |
So this is what I'm staring at right now: (sorry for the oversized phone picture)
Where and how exactly would I want to hook up the positive and negative leads? I'm pretty new to car electronics and really don't want to mess things up. Do I need to T-tap the wires? This is the back of the cigarette lighter. |
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| Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:41 am |
Post subject: |
jreC230
Forever 2nd place
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2005 Mercedes-Benz C230 Coupe
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| MikeD wrote: |
So this is what I'm staring at right now: (sorry for the oversized phone picture)
Where and how exactly would I want to hook up the positive and negative leads? I'm pretty new to car electronics and really don't want to mess things up. Do I need to T-tap the wires? This is the back of the cigarette lighter. |
From what I see test teh black/blue wire as... Brown is negative. and that other (red and white it seems like) is illumination. hope this helps 
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Jerry||Silver||Black Leather||K&N Filter||Smoked Tails||Blacked Out Grille||15% Tint||Eclipse Headunit||Custom Sub box||8000K HIDS||ADR Version II Wheels||Tein Springs||MBarts Bumper Splitters||Rear Spoiler||*Coming Soon - Quad Fogs*|| |
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| Fri Jul 30, 2010 6:02 pm |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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Joined: 26 Jul 2010
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Location: Illinois
1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| jreC230 wrote: |
| From what I see test teh black/blue wire as... Brown is negative. and that other (red and white it seems like) is illumination. hope this helps |
Thanks! you were right on with the leads!
The module works GREAT when hooked up to the back of cigarette lighter, but after some time, the inline fuse from the module blew. Maybe I wasn't being delicate enough.
Or maybe I shouldn't be using an inline fuse at all since the cigarette lighter is already a fused source? Should I keep the inline fuse?  |
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| Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:08 pm |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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Location: Illinois
1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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| If you were referring to me then no, I do have a cigg lighter in my car. That's where I attached the music interface module. |
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| Sat Jul 31, 2010 7:06 pm |
Post subject: |
MikeD
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Location: Illinois
1996 Mercedes-Benz C280
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I'm a little concerned at this point. I hooked up an LED strip to the Music Interface Module and after a few minutes, the leads from the strip got really warm, created a HUGE cloud of smoke in my car, some sparks came out, and the wires of the LED strip were reduced to just metal. However the Music Interface Module was just fine.
I'm not sure if the above incident happened because of a faulty light or because I used the module without the inline fuse. Any input at all about whether I should use an inline fuse when hooking things up to the cigarette lighter? I'm kinda scared of what'll happen next! |
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